Palmitoyl pentapeptide is a five-sided molecule consisting of collagen fragment peptides lysine, threonine and serine, combined with palmitoyl, a fatty acid derivative of interferon-alpha. Both its high absorbability and fibroblast-stimulating property, clinical research shows, make palmitoyl pentapeptide an effective collagen booster. Increased collagen production reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Palmitoyl pentapeptide is now used in many anti-aging products.
Identification
Palmitoyl pentapeptide is a derivative of the pro-collagen I pentapeptide, a chain of five amino acid fragments lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine. Known as the KTTKS peptide, pro-collagen I has stimulated cellular fibroblast production in laboratory cultures. Palmitoyl is a fatty acid derivative that, when combined with the water-soluble KTTKS pentapeptide, increases its ability to penetrate the skin by a factor of five or six. The palmitoyl in palmitoyl pentapeptide, or pal-KTTKS, is derived from interferon-alpha. "...Been disappearing your age from the whole planet? But for how much time will this keep going? Or got given up trying those tempting anti aging creams, hurtful surgery and hazardous chemicals? Do Not Worry, dear. Here is a natural therapy to look and get younger, healthier and sexier than you are. So here it is for you Anti-aging Foods..". Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, commercially marketed as Matrixyl, is a combination of palmitic acid and synthetic KTTS.
History
Palmitoyl pentapeptide was created as a result of research in two areas of dermatology: wound healing and wrinkle formation. When the skin is wounded, specialized skin cells called fibroblasts assist in creating new tissue, in part by producing collagen found in the connective tissue supporting the skin. As people age, their fibroblasts produce less collagen. Their wounds take longer to heal, the connective tissue that supports their skin becomes damaged and they develop wrinkles.
In a study cited in the May 1993 "Journal of Biological Chemistry," researchers at the University of Tennessee Departments of Medicine, Pharmacology, and Biochemistry, and the Veterans Administration Medical Center of Memphis found that when inefficient fibroblasts in aging skin tissue were isolated in the laboratory and treated with the same factors, which cause the body to release them as part of the wound repairing process, they began producing collagen at normal levels.
This discovery led to further cosmetic research on ways to increase fibroblast collagen production on human subjects.
A 12-week Procter & Gamble study showed that subjects who used a facial moisturizer enriched with pal-KTTKS at 3ppm had "...significant improvement versus placebo control for reduction in wrinkles/fine lines by both quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis."
Function
Because Pal-KTTKS is a collagen fragment affecting fibroblast activity, it stimulates production both of collagen I, III and IV proteins, and of the polysaccharide hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid plays a major role in skin hydration.
Significance
Its molecular structure enables palmitoyl pentapeptide to penetrate more deeply into skin tissue than other anti-aging products, stimulating collagen production and improving hydration. According to Procter and Gamble's Pentapeptide PAL-KTTKS Research Update, three clinical studies on women between the ages of 30 and 55 showed pamitoyl pentapeptide's effectiveness at reducing wrinkles and improving overall facial skin appearance.
Benefits
Procter & Gamble also states that palmitoyl pentapeptide does nothing to harm the skin barrier itself. This means that using it will neither cause excessive moisture loss nor allow potentially harmful substances to penetrate the skin barrier causing pain, inflammation and increased sensitivity.
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